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Decant, decant, decant ...or, not?
Uncorking or decanting a bottle of wine prior to drinking is a very common practice. Because we are convinced that decanting our wines enlivens the aromas and smooths the taste, I wanted to better understand this oenological transformation. In reviewing the Oxford Companion to Wine on this subject I noticed that some scientifically respected sources have concluded that opening a bottle prior to its consumption, except for the purpose of separating the wine from sediment, is “indefensible.”
Professor Emile Peynaud concluded that the action of oxygen dissolved in a sound wine is usually detrimental and that the longer it is exposed, the more diffuse its aroma and the less remarkable its sensory attributes. But the Oxford Companion went further: “It is certainly wise advice to decant a fully mature wine only just before serving, since some are so fragile that they can withstand oxygen for only a few minutes before succumbing to oxidation. However, there are certain types of wines which may not have been included in Professor Peynaud’s experiments and which can be so concentrated in youth that to lose some of their initial sensory impressions is a positive benefit.”
When I consider that some (Robert Parker, for example) believe our wine will show well for 25 years, it’s really still an open question as to when any of our vintages will be “fully mature.” The 2010 vintage will be our 13th, and I would venture to say that none of the bottled vintages have reached full maturity.
Since our wines are not what you would call fragile, at least not yet, we go about this decanting process with rustic vigor. We open and decant our Petite Sirah 4 hours prior to drinking. If we just pull the cork, we find that the change in the wine over time is minimal. This slight change, it is reported, is due largely to the fact that the surface area of wine exposed to the air is so small that the effects of aeration are negligible.
I splash the wine theatrically into the decanter. There is no need to be gentle. Before serving, I return the wine through a funnel into our bottle. All of us enjoy seeing our label at the table.
So, our message about our wine is this: decant it well in advance and it will be a sensuous, appealing companion for your food!
Speaking of Food...
I’ve previously shared my mother’s recipe for Osso Bucco and our recipe for Bolognese. Another in this same, rich vein follows.
Mario Batali’s Rib Eye rubbed with Porcini Paste.
We are a huge fan of Mario Batali’s food. We cook many of his dishes at the ranch; they pair wonderfully with big red wines, and in particular with our Petite Sirah. His Porcini Rib Eye is one of our favorites.
Ingredients: Serves 4
One 3 to 3 1/2 lb rib eye, cut 3 inches thick. (I like the bone out; makes for easier carving and I don’t think the flavor is compromised.)
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon Kosher salt
1 tablespoon freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes (We make our own including Guajillo, Ancho, Anaheim and Habanero chiles. A commercial version is widely available.)
1/4 cup porcini mushroom powder, ground to a fine powder in a spice grinder.
5 cloves garlic, minced.
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
Best quality extra-virgin olive oil and Balsamic vinegar for drizzing.
In a small bowl, combine the sugar, salt, black pepper, red pepper flakes, mushroom powder, garlic and 1/4 cup olive oil and stir well to form a past with the consistency of wet sand.
Rub the paste all over the steak, coating it evenly. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 12 hours, or overnight.
About 1 hour before grilling, remove the steak from the refrigerator and brush off the excess marinade with a paper towel. Place the steak on a plate and let come to room temperature.
Preheat a gas grill or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill using enough coals to keep the fire hot for 25 minutes.
Put the steak on the hottest part of the grill, cover, and cook turning every 6 to 8 minutes. Mario says 25 minutes for medium rare, with an internal temperature of 125 degrees. I think mine takes about 18 minutes all in. Keep an eye on it. Remove it and let it rest for 15 minutes.
Slice the meat against the grain into 1/2 inch thick pieces. Drizzle with olive oil and Balsamic vinegar, and serve immediately.*
I pair this wonderful, tender beef with my favorite gratin potatoes and green beans with caramelized shallots.
*See Batali, Italian Grill, Harper Collins Publishers, 2008, page 170-71.
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